Luca Maspes – Up Project
Certainly one of the longest-lived firms in Italy. Their products are always designed well and durable, to satisfy the demands of a mountaineer who works incessantly on all types of terrain.
Expeditions
- 2005. TRIP ONE, Avventura in Karakorum The team: Luca Maspes, Hervè Barmasse, Gianluca Bellin, Christian Brenna, Francesca Chenal, Ezio Marlier, Giovanni Onagro, Giovanni Pagnoncelli, Fabio Salini.
- 2006. TRIP TWO, Patagonia. Il team: Luca Maspes, Hervè Barmasse, Elia Andreola, Kurt Aster, Matteo Bernasconi, Lorenzo Lanfranchi, Giovanni Onagro, Yuri Parimbelli.
Read news Trip to Patagonia
- Profession
- Alpine Guide, Videomaker, UP Project Coordinator
- Born
- August 5, 1972
- Lives in
- San Martino Valmasino (SO)
- Civil status
- Single
- Hight
- 183 cm
- Weight
- 82 kg
- Sun sign
- Leo
- Nickname
- Rampikino
- Ferrino products used
- backpack XMT 35, backpack Magma 25, lamp Led FLux 4, sleeping bag Lightec 600, matress Nap, airbed Superlite Mummy, ropes Dru 8,5 mm, harness Mamba, Crash pad, Chalky zip, waist pouch Geode
UP Project
The height of the summit in itself doesn't count. What counts is the capacity to unite the technical aspects of the climbing expedition with the will to relate to the territory. This was the inspiration for the UP Project: the actions of a young climber who understands and integrates all the specializations: from rocks to cliffs, from rock faces to ice cascades, from mixed terrain to high altitudes. UP Project also means mountaineering united with exploration, with a desire to discover and understand mountains. Leaving space for adventure, for enterprise, but within a "precise concept": a face-off between man and nature.
TRIP TWO Patagonia 2006
Double objective in Patagonia for the UP Project members: the climbs of
the Northwest wall of the Cerro Piergiorgio and the North wall of Mount
San Lorenzo. In February, after having surpassed 11 lengths of rope
with difficulty levels up to 7a/b in free-climbing and A3 in artificial
climbing, the team gave up on climbing Piergiorgio due to a landslide
that struck the expedition leader, fortunately without very serious
consequences. During the remaining days, the expedition decided to
concentrate on other mountains of the Fitz Roy group. The team of Kurth
Astner and Yuri Parimbelli tackled the Northwest Spur of Aguja
Guillaumet to repeat the classic "Fontrouge"
route (difficulty up to 6b). The same day, the team of Hervé Barmasse
and Elia Andreola repeated the "Brenner" route (diff. up to 6a+/6b) on
the same peak. A few days later, Barmasse, Parimbelli, and Andreola
took on another speed climb along the Aguja Poincenot, repeating the "Whillans"
route. Instead, the second UP team moved further North and the second
part of the expedition focused on the main objective. On March 28, the
team is on the coveted summit of Mount San Lorenzo. Hervé Barmasse, Matteo Bernasconi, Lorenzo Lanfranchi, and Giovanni Ongaro reached the summit after having blazed "Cafe cortado", a challenging new ice and mixed terrain route on the virgin North wall of this Patagonian giant.
An interview with Technical Team
- What is Alpinism for Luca Maspes?
- From a technical point of view it is nothing more than climbing we do here in the Alps, Only transported to environment quite distant from a “normal" life, areas abroad where we can find walls and mountains that people seldom visit. Environments that also allow us to live the sensation of a mixture of travel and discovery.
- The quality that people recognize in you?
- In my field, knowing Alpine climbing and its history from A to Z,which is also a defect if you then start arguing with Alpine climbers.
- Your flaw?
- Too direct, uncompromising on certain things, egocentric.
- A childhood memory that you hold particularly dear?
- The earliest memory I have: when they took the training wheels off my bicycle and my grandmother was watching me from the window with a very worried look on her face.
- What do the following mean to you:
- Adventure?
- Anything that cannot be planned, and so we can find it anywhere.
- Risk?
- A "vice" to be taken sparingly to better live normality.
- Passion?
- Something that you have inside that makes you feel better than those who haven’t got it.
- Friendship?
- Few, but good ones. False friends don’t count. Women make better friends.
- Keeping in shape?
- Seeing “valleys" instead of belly!
- La vacanza?
- Quasi un sogno, anche se dicono che sono sempre in vacanza…
- Your favorite film?
- No one in particular. I like anything that moves me.
- Your favorite song?
- The one I hum sometimes: “Ricominciamo" by Adriano Pappalardo.
- The historical figure that you admire most?
- The english mountain-climber Ernest Henry Shackleton, because he lived the most incredible adventure of all times. From the perspective of audacity and resistance, today’s modern climbers are a joke!
- The athlete you admire most?
- The athlete that perhaps made me tremble and then rejoice: Alberto Tomba when he came barrelling those slaloms like a mad man.
- If you hadn’t become Luca Maspes, what would you have done?
- I would have tried to love doing something else, but I can’t imagine what.