Valerio Bertoglio
Ferrino is truly dedicated to research and experimentation.
Accomplishments
- 1990. He broke a prestigious record: Cervinia-the Matterhorn- Cervinia in 4h 16' 26"
- 1991. A new record for Gran Paradiso: 2h 32' 06"
- 1994. From Cogne (the Aosta Valley) he climbed and descended Mount Grivola in 4h 11' and covered a difference in altitude of more than 20,000 m on Rocciamelone.
- 2001. In Peru he climbed almost a dozen 5000's, the Huascarán (m 6768) and Tocllaraju (m 6034)
- 2003. Organized the Italian-Peruvian expedition that opened a new route along the southern crest of Nevado Copa (m 6188).
- 2005. Participated in the "Tibet 2005" expedition and the attempt to establish a twinning between the Gran Paradiso National Park and that of the Sagarmatha.
- 2006. Participated in the "PATAGONIA 2006". project.
- Profession
- Park Ranger - Alpine Guide
- Born
- June 16, 1956
- Lives in
- Ceresole Reale - Torino
- Civil Status
- Married
- Height
- 189 cm
- Weight
- 80 kg
- Sun sign
- Gemini
- Nickname
- None
- Ferrino products used
- Truly dedicated to research and experimentation
Activity
After having done track for years, Valerio Bertoglio started climbing. From this mix of disciplines he set out on his first exploits, including his 1988 non-stop climb of the Gran Paradiso and Monte Rosa. In 1989 he consecutively climbed the four northern faces of the Gran Paradiso group in 12 hours: Gran Paradiso - North face 46'; Ciarforon - Chiara route 40'; Becca di Monciair - North face 31'; Denti del Broglio - North face 1h 03'. This was the beginning of a career that now counts more than 1250 Alpine skiing trips, 550 climbs on rock, ice, and mixed walls including more than 80 northern walls, 13 new trails, 2 winter records and more than 100 frozen waterfalls -for the most part untied. A career marked by unforgettable achievements.
Volunteer work
In Peru, Valerio's dedication to climbing was matched by his work in the field of solidarity. In 2001, trained Andes Guides as a volunteer for a non-profit group. His students? A group of local boys, born and raised in the poverty-stricken villages of the Cordillera Blanca and who attended the E scuela de Alta Montaña "Don Bosco en los Andes" in Marcarà. The boys were determined to earn their licenses in order to overcome the poverty and isolation around them. In 2002, Bertoglio returned to the village of the Cordillera Blanca for the first course in skiing for the Peruvian guides. During the same year, he contributed to the establishment of a dairy business amidst the pastures of Huachucocha at 4250 m.
Patagonia 2006
Valerio was one of the founders of the "PATAGONIA 2006 ": exploration project dedicated once again to the technical preparation of young Peruvian guides. In addition to teaching and training, the project must also be remembered for its technical characteristics. The following peaks were climbed: Pliege Tumbado - Poincenot - Cerro Solo - Aguille de la "S" - Cerro Madsen - Cerro Electrico and opened two new trails on the unexplored Cerro de Censi in Tierra del Fuego. The Andean youths gave everything they had physically, reaching a spectacular record: leaving from Horcones, one of them called Jaime Ramirez, trekked the ups and downs of the Aconcagua within the provincial park bearing the same name in only 14 hours and 59 minutes. This record crushed the previous ones for the same route, held by the Argentine Willie Benegas (23 hours) and the Peruvian Holmes Pantoja (20h 35').
An interview with Technical Team
- What is Alpinism for Valerio Bertoglio?
- Exertion, physical capacity, strategy, satisfaction.
- The quality that people recognize in you?
- Determination.
- Your flaw?
- I only do what I want.
- A childhood memory that you hold particularly dear?
- The weeks passed on my cousins’ farm in Cuneo during the summer.
- What do the following mean to you:
- Adventure?
- The perfume of life.
- Risk?
- The thrill of going too far.
- Passion?
- Giving all you've got for something you believe in.
- Friendship?
- Knowing how to give without expecting anything in return.
- Keeping in shape?
- Feeling good about yourself, preparing, and improving.
- Vacation?
- I always feel like I’m on vacation, because I enjoy tiring myself out.
- Your favorite film?
- Benigni’s “Life is wonderful!
- Your favorite song?
- "Un vecchio e un bambino" di Francesco Guccini.
- The historical figure that you admire most?
- Ernesto Che Guevara.
- The athlete you admire most?
- Gelindo Bordin.
- If you hadn’t become Valerio Bertoglio, what would you have done?
- Usually we are what we become, I have no regrets.
